Problem Fendt F28 Smoke a lot

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    1. Hi, I write from Italy. I have a Fendt F28 to which I have changed the cylinder, piston rings and piston and checked the valves and head, which has also been repaired with a weld on the exhaust valve of cylinder 1. Unfortunately it still struggles to start as before doing the job and once Party makes a lot of smoke as per attached photos, the same one he always did before doing the work. Except that before he had a poor compression and with the winter he could not even leave. Now once in motion and warmed up, the engine runs fairly smoothly, with a few crackles every so often only in the first few minutes of operation, but it always makes the same amount of smoke both hot and cold. Abnormal consumption of water or oil is not known. The oil put is new and it is a 15W40. What can be the cause? Possible is the clogged air filter that causes oil suction in the cylinder from below. Or an injection problem? The injectors have been checked and calibrated at 100ATM. Can anyone help me? Thank you
  • Does wear of the injection cam make starting the engine cold even difficult? Practically cold I can start it only by making it take more turns by spraying ether on the suction.

    Where can I find replacement cams? is there a site that sells them with shipping also in Italy? I found the cylinders, pistons and bands on Delegro, but there is nothing else for sale for these engines. Are they difficult to replace? Are there any adjustments to be made or would it be enough to dismantle the old ones and put the new ones in? Unfortunately I don't have a workshop manual in Italian ...

  • Ho contattato Bracht che mi ha assicurato che poteva darmi la camma di iniezione di ricambio ricostruita e un paio di nuovi rulli. Che ne dici, questi pezzi risolveranno il fumo proveniente dallo scarico e consentiranno di avviare il motore a freddo senza fatica? La sostituzione delle parti sarà sufficiente o qualcosa dovrà essere regolato? Purtroppo non sono un esperto e prima di fare acquisti ho bisogno di consigli. Grazie

    Hätte ich auch nicht besser sagen können!:D:D:D

    Am Ende wird Alles gut! Wenn noch nicht Alles gut ist, dann ist es noch nicht das Ende!

  • Exchanging the parts is not difficult. The problem is that set. The delivery rates of the two cylinders must be set using spacers between the roller Levers.

    This is normally not changed. But it still has to be checked.


    Based on the different languages, we should proceed step by step in this case.

    If you deal with the technology enough, you will understand how and why.

  • I contacted Bracht who assured me that he could give me the rebuilt replacement injection cam and a couple of new rollers. How about these pieces will solve the smoke from the exhaust and allow you to start the engine cold without fatigue? Will the replacement of parts be sufficient or will something have to be adjusted? Unfortunately I am not an expert and before buying I need advice. Thank you

  • Exchanging the parts is not difficult. The problem is that set. The delivery rates of the two cylinders must be set using spacers between the roller Levers.

    This is normally not changed. But it still has to be checked.


    Based on the different languages, we should proceed step by step in this case.

    If you deal with the technology enough, you will understand how and why.



    How do you set the spacers between the roller levers? Replacing only the cams and rollers and reassembling everything as before could it work well? The Cams are not cheap and before buying them I would like to have this information. Thank you

  • Hallo csmoie,

    in this Tema you will find a lot of Pictures to exaktliy this replacement.

    Instandsetzung für Tüv F28

    My english is not as well to translate all this, but even you can see at once what to do.

    I think you will Need a Manual in a known langret. The Level of the rolls has to be adjustetd behind the injection pump. There are two "Stössel" (Photo)

    Br

    uli

    Grüße aus dem schönsten Bundesland der Welt 8)


    Nun denn, die Hand ans Werk,

    die Herzen himmelan,

    denn im Zaudern liegt die Gefahr.

  • How do you set the spacers between the roller levers? Replacing only the cams and rollers and reassembling everything as before could it work well? The Cams are not cheap and before buying them I would like to have this information. Thank you

    Right. You just swap the cam ring and the rollers. On the shaft on which the rocker arms with the rollers sit, there should be a spacer between the two rocker arms. This spacer must be in between again. This spacer is responsible for ensuring that both cylinders have the same delivery rate.If you make a thicker or thinner slice between "move" the roller towards full throttle or idle. In normal cases, this should not change during a Revision...


    and you look at the link of "universal dilettant". who explains that very well how to do it.

  • Right. You just swap the cam ring and the rollers. On the shaft on which the rocker arms with the rollers sit, there should be a spacer between the two rocker arms. This spacer must be in between again. This spacer is responsible for ensuring that both cylinders have the same delivery rate.If you make a thicker or thinner slice between "move" the roller towards full throttle or idle. In normal cases, this should not change during a Revision...


    and you look at the link of "universal dilettant". who explains that very well how to do it.

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    1. Perfect, everything is clear. I went to see the cams and the rollers, the cams do not seem very ugly but the rollers are really worn and I even found a play of 0.60mm on one and 0.30 on the other, when it should be at most 0.15mm for both . This I believe is the cause of difficult ignition and a lot of gray smoke when in motion. The injection is too late and the diesel fuel is not burned well. In fact, removing the glow plugs, I then found many carbon deposits, especially on the cylinder that has the play on the injection more. Tomorrow I try to regulate the play between rolls and cams and see if things improve, before proceeding with the replacement of the cams and rollers, since it is quite expensive. I hope it will be enough to make ignition easy and eliminate excessive smoke. After all, the compression should be good since the cylinders, pistons and piston rings and valves have made them new.
  • Yes you see, that sounds good. With so much role play, the ignition is really very late. It should be 30-32 degrees before top dead center. Set that up first and see how it runs. I would also measure compression. Should have over 22 bar. It will run significantly better this way.

    Today I turned the Fendt back on after I recorded the play of the rollers on the cam at about 0.10mm, and things have improved significantly. The compression I measured and stood between 23 and 24 bar per cylinder. With the new calibration, the smoke has reduced significantly, and when hot it returns to normal. It is still a bit difficult to start cold despite the new glow plugs, but once in motion it climbs much better than before laps and responds well to the accelerator. I believe that to totally resolve I should replace both the cam and the worn rolls, but for now I am satisfied and waiting, since the expense is not cheap.