I mounted it as seen in the
photo. In this way I started the engine and noticed that the thermostat
remained closed until the water reached 80 degrees after about 10 minutes. The
radiator has remained cold until then, the intake of the thermostat on the engine
side was hot and the tube was also hot to go below which I believe is a
recirculation of the water because it returns to the pump inlet. Beyond 80
degrees, the thermostat outlet on the side of the radiator also became hot and
the radiator also warmed up from the top. On the thermometer the temperature
then dropped to around 70 degrees and remained constant for as long as the
engine was running. I think everything works then, right? The only doubt I have
is the strange curve that makes the tube go down, a curve that would not be if
I inverted the thermostat, but in that way I believe that the water of the
motor until it reaches the temperature could not turn and the pump would push
inside the engine without there being any outlet until the thermostat opens.
And the recirculation with the thermostat closed would be on the side of the
radiator. Who can remove my doubts and reassure me about the correct assembly?
I also point out that unfortunately there is no arrow on the thermostat
indicating the mounting direction, but only a printed letter G that if you
invert the thermostat with respect to how it is mounted in the photo, it would remain

upside down, while mounted as in the photo it is in the right position for reading.

Hi, I have to mount the thermostat on my Fendt F28 MWM KDW415Z engine. I
purchased a new one on ebay which has 3 connections, the entrance, the exit and
the recirculation. The question is: should recirculation be placed before or
after the temperature controlled gate? On the thermostat that I purchased I
can't understand the assembly direction.

So I asked if the recirculation goes before closing in temperature and
therefore remains on the engine side by turning the water in the engine until
the opening temperature is reached, or if after and

therefore by the radiator side by turning the radiator water up at which
the engine water does not reach the opening temperature. Thank you

Zitat von Dieselross F25P

Yes you see, that sounds good. With so much role play, the ignition is really very late. It should be 30-32 degrees before top dead center. Set that up first and see how it runs. I would also measure compression. Should have over 22 bar. It will run significantly better this way.

Today I turned the Fendt back on after I recorded the play of the rollers on the cam at about 0.10mm, and things have improved significantly. The compression I measured and stood between 23 and 24 bar per cylinder. With the new calibration, the smoke has reduced significantly, and when hot it returns to normal. It is still a bit difficult to start cold despite the new glow plugs, but once in motion it climbs much better than before laps and responds well to the accelerator. I believe that to totally resolve I should replace both the cam and the worn rolls, but for now I am satisfied and waiting, since the expense is not cheap.

Zitat von Dieselross F25P

Right. You just swap the cam ring and the rollers. On the shaft on which the rocker arms with the rollers sit, there should be a spacer between the two rocker arms. This spacer must be in between again. This spacer is responsible for ensuring that both cylinders have the same delivery rate.If you make a thicker or thinner slice between "move" the roller towards full throttle or idle. In normal cases, this should not change during a Revision...

and you look at the link of "universal dilettant". who explains that very well how to do it.

Perfect, everything is clear. I went to see the cams and the rollers, the cams do not seem very ugly but the rollers are really worn and I even found a play of 0.60mm on one and 0.30 on the other, when it should be at most 0.15mm for both . This I believe is the cause of difficult ignition and a lot of gray smoke when in motion. The injection is too late and the diesel fuel is not burned well. In fact, removing the glow plugs, I then found many carbon deposits, especially on the cylinder that has the play on the injection more. Tomorrow I try to regulate the play between rolls and cams and see if things improve, before proceeding with the replacement of the cams and rollers, since it is quite expensive. I hope it will be enough to make ignition easy and eliminate excessive smoke. After all, the compression should be good since the cylinders, pistons and piston rings and valves have made them new.

Zitat von Dieselross F25P

Exchanging the parts is not difficult. The problem is that set. The delivery rates of the two cylinders must be set using spacers between the roller Levers.

This is normally not changed. But it still has to be checked.

Based on the different languages, we should proceed step by step in this case.

If you deal with the technology enough, you will understand how and why.

How do you set the spacers between the roller levers? Replacing only the cams and rollers and reassembling everything as before could it work well? The Cams are not cheap and before buying them I would like to have this information. Thank you

I contacted Bracht who assured me that he could give me the rebuilt replacement injection cam and a couple of new rollers. How about these pieces will solve the smoke from the exhaust and allow you to start the engine cold without fatigue? Will the replacement of parts be sufficient or will something have to be adjusted? Unfortunately I am not an expert and before buying I need advice. Thank you

Does wear of the injection cam make starting the engine cold even difficult? Practically cold I can start it only by making it take more turns by spraying ether on the suction.

Where can I find replacement cams? is there a site that sells them with shipping also in Italy? I found the cylinders, pistons and bands on Delegro, but there is nothing else for sale for these engines. Are they difficult to replace? Are there any adjustments to be made or would it be enough to dismantle the old ones and put the new ones in? Unfortunately I don't have a workshop manual in Italian ...

Questo, tuttavia, è un altro video in cui vedi come mantiene il minimo.

Ecco un video del trattore da Youtube.